‘Luxe & Sustainable’ Rendezvous At MakeUp In Paris

More than 150 cosmetic and skincare formulation and packaging suppliers converged on the Carrousel de Louvre on May 29-30, to connect with beauty brands searching for the latest advances in cosmetics, fragrance, skincare, and accessories. In addition, dozens of industry experts contributed to sessions that provided an accelerated, topical education for MakeUp in Paris attendees.

Commenting on the show’s success, Sandra Maguarian, co-founder of the ‘MakeUp in’ shows, told Beauty Packaging, “I am proud to say that the DNA of the ‘MakeUp in’ shows was felt in every corner of the show with tons of innovations in products and manufacturing processes, and trends in a spectacular décor—all in a kind of ‘friends gathering atmosphere.’ I can’t wait to see what the next edition in Paris will be like, as we celebrate our 15th edition and 50 worldwide ‘MakeUp in’ events!

Trends of Note

Industry terms including recycle-ready, mono-materials, aluminum, glass, paper, PP, PET, and PIR were top priorities. Hot-stamping with different depths and other multi-level visual effects were popular for both bulk and packaging components.

Wipers gained status as a trending category of their own, as celebrities’ social media documentation of spreading on color and cream rather than dabbing or patting, influenced new applicator development. Introductions at MUP included spatula-like spreaders for lips, foundation, and skincare. Pencils of all types and sizes made their mark. Fragrance applied with a brush was introduced as a new gesture.

Personalization, customization, and portability were also hot topics. Various ways to add a logo, name, or recognizable design or color, lured attendees. In addition, double-duty products with more than one applicator, color, fragrance, or formulation ticked convenience and sustainability boxes.

Ease of application and removal of cosmetics and skincare products has become another priority. Some exhibitors said they were creating products in the hopes of achieving “the Tik-Tok effect.”

IT Awards

The IT Awards are always a highlight at the ‘MakeUp in’ shows, and Paris was no exception. Awarded products and runners-up were placed front and center at the entrance to the show floor, setting the mood for the innovation, style, and creativity for both packaging and formulations that lay ahead in the 3 large exhibit areas. Jury members had assessed the 27 finalists from all categories, to award prizes to the most innovative entries.

At the 2024 edition of MUP, IT winners were named in 4 categories.

The awards for Packaging hit some of the major talking points at the show—combining luxury with sustainability, refillable, aluminum, ease of use, and personalization.

Packaging IT Award: PPK & Morrama revealed Maya Refillable Lipstick Packaging. This refillable lipstick case is made of aluminum, with the refill material composed of bamboo pulp and bagasse that looks like paper. Combining luxury with sustainability, its casing offers “a velvety, smooth texture and an ergonomic shape that comfortably fits in the hand.” The refill slides smoothly into the case with a simple twist. Each lipstick case can be personalized.

Full-Service IT Award: Chromavis Fareva’s Carte Blanche: Your Own Story Palette (an on-the-go “makeup card”) was billed as the first water-activated makeup powder. It was presented on FSC paper. This patent-pending technology is a re-engineered version of a patented formula, delivered without traditional packaging. The blank card format allows unlimited creativity, and is lightweight and easy for travel. It is also fully customizable.

Formulation IT Award: B.Kolormakeup & Skincare’s Graffiti Luminous Spray is a hydrating liquid spray blush that takes makeup application to a new level—with a new gesture. This colored mist, designed to sculpt and illuminate the face, is sprayed onto a sponge or brush and then blended onto the cheeks for “a luminous finish.”

Accessories IT Award: HNB Corporation’s Vase Makeup Brush is a set of three brushes crafted especially for applying foundation, powder, and concealer. The handles were inspired by the shape of a vase, and designed to improve grip. The brush heads are handmade from recycled corn fibers. 

Capping Innovation

Just beyond where the IT award recipients were displayed was the C.A.P. (Clever Alternative Products) booth, which featured a newly developed luxe & sustainable premium lipstick pack, called Cheeky. Developed with renowned beauty industry veteran, packaging designer, and Creative Director of La French Company, Thierry De Baschmakoff, the product drew lots of interest for its originality. “We wanted to bring something new,” he told Beauty Packaging.

Instead of the bulk going up or down in the barrel, the barrel, itself, rotates down. “We created our own reverse-engineered mechanism,” De Baschmakoff said. The shape of the sleeve can be customized, and the mechanism can be made to be fast or slow. The outside can be made in numerous sustainable materials such as PP, PET, and glass. De Baschmakoff also said that the mechanism makes it impossible to crush the lipstick when capping it.

The sustainable PP refill cartridge is recyclable and lightweight. As this is the part to be discarded and replaced, it was designed to use just a minimum of material and energy. The exterior cartridge, which is meant to be retained, offers “unlimited customization features.”

De Baschmakoff said, “Everyone now wants a personalization feature—especially in the refill area where packaging is created to remain with the consumer.”

The secondary packaging for the lipstick is all wood, and injectable.

The Latest from MUP Exhibitors

Following is a look at some exhibitors, packs, and formulations that drew Beauty Packaging’s attention on the MUP show floor. Companies are arranged in alphabetical order.

3 Dust

3 Dust, from Milan, presented full-service customized decorated powder palettes not yet on the U.S. market. Illuminante is their new technology, a manufacturing process without solvents, baking, or pressing. 3 Dust says the “totally new” process produces large quantities of powder, including one with a “velvety feel.” They have also converted a “freeze-dry” process from the pharma industry, “in which you take away the cake and put it in a package,” and customized it for personalization and branding purposes in cosmetics.

The powder texture formula is free from harmful ingredients, and suitable for use on the eyes, face, décolleté, and shoulders. The freeze-dry process maintains the original color and glossy effect of the products, while “enhancing their stability and longevity.”

Axilone

A finalist in the MUP IT awards, Axilone’s limited-edition lipstick features a base, cap, and an aluminum shell, adorned with a decoration inspired by the iconic YSL zebra pattern. The process includes clean anodization to prepare the aluminum for decoration, white luminescent lacquering that turns green at night, black screen printing to create the pattern, and a final clear protective varnish. Its slim design with a square bullet enables precise and controlled application.

Ray-Lalanne says the company’s goal is to have a full aluminum range for all categories. They are currently working on a “new makeup offer for eyes, including mascara.” Cartier’s new body cream with a “technical cap” comes with an offer of vials of aroma, which can be added to the unscented cream.

Brivaplast

Concept 4

Concept 4 works to connect China with the U.S. regarding design and packaging. FSC paper compacts without magnets were on display. The company says they calculate the carbon emissions of every step in the process—to show customers what a difference the choice of various materials can make, and how this compares to EU and U.S. standards. A simple lip balm that pushes up in a 100% paper tube was shown.

Confalonieri Matite

All types of pencils were popular at MUP. From Italy, Confalonieri Matite showed a wide assortment of wooden pencils, specifically for private label—including for eye, lip, eyebrow, and concealer. All are produced in Italy and sold direct.

Cosmax

Primarily a formulations-based company, Cosmax also offers turnkey services. The company, with 800 scientists globally, says it is the largest cosmetics manufacturer in the world—with a major portion in Asia. Julie Lee, Strategic Marketing, showed me several of their products that she said had become viral Tik-Tok trends, including UV patches, undereye patches, pearl highlighter sheet masks, microneedling patches, and a sponge that feels just like skin.

CTK Clip

FR & Partners

Geka

Geka’s on-the-go gel fragrance packaging includes a combination of matte and shiny shadow printing as well as shiny silver hot foil printing. The unique bottle design has a hygienic micro bristle applicator that can be applied to the skin precisely, without product waste.

HCP Packaging

HCT Packaging

Homer Color Printing

Jiusu

IL Cosmetics

New in lips at IL Cosmetics was a clear lip gloss with a fluffy flocked applicator, with applicator, bottle, and cap all available in PET/PCR mono-materials. Thanks to an improvement in materials, IL Cosmetics says this brush is not a stiff rigid brush as before—but soft, with a correct volume level.

Libo

Metapack

Metapack displayed the face compact (concealer and highlighter) they had created for well-known makeup artist Fara Homidi. With eco-responsibility and sustainability in mind, this fully refillable compact is made of Zamac and Treva bioplastic by Eastman with a shiny red-lacquered finish. The refills are orientated in the compact through the logo engraving. Its curved edges provide an ergonomic shape, which is comfortable to handle, complemented with a magnetic closure. Spray pursers, lipsticks in glass—and full Zamac cold-touch spatulas were also on display.

Pibiplast

Pibiplast says, that the collection (‘which would be great for a Paris Olympics 2024 brand launch’) “highlights the synergies with formulators that allow brands to significantly reduce development and launch times of new cosmetic products.”

Samhwa

Texen

TOA

TOA, a cosmetic OEM from Japan, was a first-time exhibitor at MUP. Etsuko Kosuge, International Sales, showed Beauty Packaging a range of water-based specialty cosmetics including nail polish; and a water-encapsulated powder that can be worn on top of foundation to set it. Just a little product is needed to moisturize skin. Gel eyeliners are applied smoothly and evenly, without scrubbing to remove. While TOA specializes in formulations, they also provide contract manufacturing and turnkey services. The team’s beautiful traditional kimonos and obis made a beauty statement of their own.

More ‘MakeUp in’ Ahead

The next ‘MakeUp in’ show will take place September 18-19, in New York, at Manhattan’s Javits Center. 

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