Southern Q still dominates Houston for East Texas-style barbecue

Southern Q BBQ continues the tradition of East Texas-style barbecue

In the summer of 2017, Steve and Sherice Garner decided to expand their small barbecue operation on Kuykendahl Rd. to a larger facility on W. Richey Rd. near I-45 and the Sam Houston Tollway.

Not long after signing the lease and drawing up plans to build their dream location of Southern Q BBQ & Catering, Hurricane Harvey hit. In the aftermath, the availability of building contractors was scarce, so they didn’t open until early 2019.

This episode foreshadowed the next few years of challenges that have affected the Garners as well as many other barbecue joints in the area. They recently celebrated the five-year anniversary at the Richey location. I spoke with them about lessons learned and the ups and downs of the barbecue business.

What is the best advice they could give a pitmaster with a small operation wanting to expand to a much larger brick-and-mortar?

“My number one piece of advice is to establish and good relationship with a bank,” says Steve. “Having your finances in order is a key. Number two, I would tell someone to have good contractors you can trust. If you have those two things you’re headed in the right direction.”

Indeed, when an aspiring pitmaster thinks about going pro, the main considerations are things like type and size of smokers and the grade of beef to be used for the brisket. But the determining factors of success are more mundane: banks, contractors and, especially, staffing.

“That was exciting and adventurous all at the same time,” says Steve of staffing the Richey location. “We went from a staff of 6 to 26 overnight without compromising the quality of the product.”

Another recent setback happened when Steve’s dad, Wesley, passed away.

“He was my number one fan,” says Steve. “He wasn’t ashamed to tell everybody about us.”

I spoke with Wesley several times on visits to the restaurant over the years; we often discussed the history of East Texas-style barbecue. He was an accomplished amateur historian on the subject, and often spent time trying to draw a connection between his family and that of early 20th-century Houston pitmaster Matt Garner who is considered the father of East Texas-style barbecue.

Alas, no direct connection could be determined, but the search always provided Wesley with curiosity and fascination.

Steve and Sherice have further emphasized East Texas-style barbecue with menu additions like rib tips, fried green tomatoes and smoked turkey legs. The excellent smoked boudin with spicy firecrackers is still on the menu along with great collard greens and dirty rice.

Even after five years of ups and downs and ultimately success, you can always count on seeing Steve and Sherice greeting customers and taking care of business every day.

Recently, Hurricane Beryl blew off the colorful signs emblazoned across the top of the restaurant and damaged the roof. After only a few days getting the roof fixed (know your contractors!) they were back open and serving customers.

For Sherice, who is an Air Force veteran, taking care of fellow service members is a priority.

“I enjoy talking to veterans because I’m a veteran and they love talking about which branch of service is the best,” says Sherice.

Steve is straightforward when talking about the time and effort it takes running a small business, in particular a restaurant, and especially a barbecue restaurant.

“I’m think built a little differently because I love what I do so much,” says Steve. “I love the community and customers and I appreciate everybody that walks through the doors. To me it’s my life.”