The makeup industry needs a makeover. Can it pull one off?

On both Autumn/Winter 2024 and SS25 runways, bold-eye looks heavily influenced the catwalk. Moda Operandi’s home and beauty buyer Jessica Matlin says the trend would spark commercial buzz this year, which College is also banking on. “I’m ready for some exciting innovation within the eye category from catwalks — launches have been relatively lacking and this is certainly a space that will inspire colour’s return,” says College.

Scott highlights viral trends like the ‘unrecognisable makeup look’ (dramatically transforming oneself using makeup) as a renewed consumer interest in makeup artistry. “This trend is a glimpse into colour’s resurgence, reintroducing audiences to techniques [like a cut crease] that have been pushed aside in recent years,” she says.

Meanwhile, launches such as Milk’s Hydro Grip 12-Hour Hydrating Skin Tint and Makeup Forever’s Super Boost Skin Tint hit the market as full-coverage complexion products and a move away from the barely-there tints that have populated the market in recent years. There’s also Huda Beauty’s Ube pressed powder collection, which has gone viral on TikTok as users lean into the range’s bright pink and lilac shades to complete their full-coverage makeup looks. “[The launch] anchors a return to bolder makeup,” says Scott.

Reinventing once beloved products can also drive sales for brands, Michael Appler, marketing VP at Trendalytics, says. Last year, Urban Decay relaunched its iconic Naked palette (a product that’s racked up over $1 billion in sales since its launch in 2010, according to the company) in vegan and cruelty-free shades.

Makeup brand SIMIHAZE Beauty Colour Glaze Lip and Cheek pigment that transforms from matte to gloss (Left) Violette_fr blush pigments for a pearlised makeup finish (Right).

Photos: Courtesy of SIMIHAZE Beauty and Violette_fr

Today’s consumers aren’t just looking for nostalgia, they expect performance and benefits, too. “One way to do this is by developing sheer, buildable formulas that let users layer pigment gradually, making bold shades feel less intimidating,” says Simi Khadra, co-founder of SIMIHAZE Beauty. “Hybrid textures that shift between matte and gloss, temperature-activated pigments, or light-reflective formulas that transform throughout the day can make colour cosmetics feel fresh again.” Brands like Violette_FR, Milk Makeup, SIMIHAZE beauty and Isamaya Ffrench are gaining momentum and are standing out based on a hybrid innovation approach.

For heritage colour cosmetics brands to get their groove back, the message is clear: they need to innovate, rethink hybridisation and meet consumers exactly where they are — mixing, experimenting and demanding more from every product they buy. “There is still a market for colour cosmetics. Brands just need to be willing to innovate and adapt using swifter strategies,” says Appler.

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