Why is conservative dressing on the rise when modest fashion is under fire?
The current state of modest fashion is full of contradictions. On one hand, the quiet luxury trend has unintentionally led to more options on the market for those who choose to dress more conservatively, with plenty of Western celebrities and influencers serving as style inspiration — just take Lauren Sanchez Bezos’s buttoned-up coat dress at the Balenciaga couture show, for instance. The Middle Eastern market and its wealthy consumers (who are often Muslim) are also a key target for luxury in 2025, as the region’s solid growth stands out amid challenges in the US and China. At the same time, there’s a growing spotlight on Middle Eastern designers such as Syrian-born, Dubai-based Rami Al Ali, who debuted at couture week this month.
On the other hand, Muslim modest fashion consumers say they’ve noticed a shift in how their style choices are perceived amid growing political tensions. Vogue Business spoke to 10 modest fashion customers from a variety of backgrounds for this story. When asked if they’ve faced discrimination for dressing modestly, there was a stark difference between the responses from Muslim and non-Muslim modest fashion consumers. “Discrimination can sometimes be as simple as a dirty look, and I get that a lot when I am travelling, unfortunately,” says London-based photographer Noor-u-Nisa Khan. She recalls one instance where she was shooting front of house for an international publication at a major Italian brand’s fashion show and was the only photographer who was asked to leave despite having an official badge. “I can’t say for sure it was because of my hijab, but this is the impression I got. It’s honestly a really scary time to be a visible Muslim.”
While independent brands like Merrachi, Sabirah and Khanum’s that take a loud and proud approach to accommodating the modest fashion customer are thriving, larger Western luxury brands are caught between wanting to appeal to Muslim consumers and being afraid of taking what might be perceived as a political stance. Experts say the key to getting it right is understanding the nuances of the modest fashion customer and how to segment and target them effectively.
Quiet luxury: A modest fashion opportunity or setback?
Over the past two years, a “quiet luxury” trend has emerged, characterised by chic minimalistic dressing and more covered silhouettes, including high necklines, maxi skirt lengths and oversized cuts. “Trends like quiet luxury have made certain styles more accessible for modest dressers, but it’s not always intentional,” says Intisar Abdul-Kader, a London-based public health professional, Nike running coach and model who wears the hijab.
Trend analysts have been quick to point out that the rise in quiet luxury can be traced back to a desire for tradition and conservative ideals in the face of the growing uncertainty of the post-Covid world. So while quiet luxury styles may be more inclusive to modest fashion wearers on the surface, the same conservative ideals that are spurring this trend are creating political tensions and growing Islamophobia that make it harder to present as visibly Muslim.
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